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GREEN
NOTE
tee shirt for men
by Frootful |
KEEP ON
SLIDING
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by Frootful |
MAGIC
NUMBERS
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by Fane |
SURFARI
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by Frootful |
SHOULDA
BEEN HERE
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by
Frootful |
AIR
long sleeves tee for baby
by Fane |
PANDORA
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by Brouhaha |
HOME SWEET
HOME
tee shirt for boy
by A-Side Studio |
SHOULDA
BEEN HERE
tee shirt for boy
by
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TUBE JUICE
long sleeves tee for baby
by Frootful |
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LOCALISME
Give a wave (part.1)
Peter Adams
Water
is the great giver of life. Without it Earth would be as dry
as Mars. Without surfing our lives would be as barren. The great
seas of water on our beautiful blue planet have not only given
surfers life, but also their meaning of life. But what is the
meaning of a surfing life?
Do
we love surf?
If
we believed what the sad side of the surf industry sells us
we’d see a surfing life means self-gratification to the expense
of all others. Life is about feeling good for ourselves, we
are told. We go shred, tear, rip and carve up virgin walls of
water. We surfers love to surf, we see ourselves doing anything
to ride a day’s worth of decent waves, anything! We would bunk
off work without a second thought, blow out family events and
friends, we’d snake through the line-up to snatch our set waves,
drop-in on non-locals, even threaten them with violence or violent
looks to keep them quiet, anything to get our well-earned waves
to ourselves. We surfers love to surf, but do we love the surf?
If we did, love the surf as much as ourselves, what might happen?
First we must understand
ourselves to get past this self-obsession. Where do these protective
fears come from? Intense feelings of localism arise after we
lay claim to an area as our territory. It’s only natural. After
we’ve established out place in our pecking order we help regulate
the status quo with assertive expressions of localism. It’s
when interlopers descend who don’t know the local customs and
punishments for transgression that friction arises. Something
has to snap, and it’s either bad temper or rigid rules.
Taking, taking, taking
We’ve all spent so much time,
effort and resources getting to the beach. We’ve studied the
weather to predict the swell, got in sync with the tides and
arrived there on time. It’s understandable if we get touchy
when someone else snag the waves. As Dale Larson comments in
Surfpulse.com "hardcore surfers have sacrificed so much of their
life to surfing, that the thought of someone taking their reward
is almost unbearable. This explains why we see such fierce territorialism
and so many altercations in the water. Outsiders can’t possibly
understand it, for in what other sport are careers, relationships
even families sacrificed solely for the pursuit of waves?" But
what might happen if we could bear it? What if our surfing customs
were based on sharing waves for the common good of all that
day’s surfers?
In
“Surfers: The Movie” Owl Chapman shouts " Instead of us taking,
taking, taking: give a wave. Give a wave!"
Picture how it might feel if the next time a couple of people
paddled into your line-up you gave them both a set wave. Chances
are you'd get your reward from third wave in the set! Next time
you go surfing keep Owl’s thought "Give a Wave!" in your head,
and see how you feel in your heart after acting upon it in the
surf. |
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