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Citations

ARTICLES

Localisme
Give a Wave
part. 1
& part. 2
par Peter Adams

Techno
La planche écolo? par Eno

Surfiction
Le dernier rameur par Eno

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The Inventeur
par Lino Rino

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Surf Mobiles
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LOCALISME
Give a wave (part.2)
Peter Adams

Pro surfer Jon Buchorski spends most days surfing his local beach of Whitesands in Sennen. He’s noticed how nature’s waves are magnetised to people who treat them well. "People that seem to be enjoying themselves always have the waves going to them. If you’re out there taking it far too seriously, like you do sometimes, if you’re a “keen-being”, the waves just go off to other people."

Think water lives
How should you treat somebody that has just given you a wave? Pretty well. Well, how should you treat the ocean that has given you surfing? Brilliantly...that’s how! Simple water has some amazing attributes; among them it has been shown to display a memory of how it has been treated. In 1996 Dr. David Schweitzer became the first scientist to photograph the effects of thought on water. Schweitzer’s purpose-built fluorescent microscope showed light bodies or somatids, that Einstein theorised were present in water, change in response to thought. Just before water droplets on his microscope slides evaporated, Dr. Schweitzer photographed the somatids’ formations. Amazingly the brightness of light displayed by the somatids intensified in the presence of positive thoughts. They shone even brighter if the thoughts were backed up by positive emotions. This shows that water holds a memory of what people have felt and thought about it.

Here’s a thought: " In every drop of water dwells a deity." Think of water as a living thing. Treat it like a friend. The better you treat your friends the better they treat you. A truly inspiring friend of mine sees each wave as having its own personality; rather like weather watchers name tropical typhoons, he studies and builds up relationships with waves. Names often resound the characteristics of the things they describe. Think "Mavericks", now think "Malibu"; some waves seem full of malice and just want to crunch you up, others are so mellow you get lulled into a semi-hypnotic state simply by talking about them. This friend of mine described his first surf at Porthleven’s popular reef as akin to beginning a new relationship with a special someone.

Make somatids shine

Waves are irrepressible expressions of the universal energy of transformation. Originating from the star at the centre of our solar system, the Sun’s light waves travel millions of miles before entering Earth’s atmosphere. Once here they transform into heat. The Sun’s heat waves warm part of the globe more than others. Wind blows in between these disparate areas of temperature to even them out. These winds blow out across our oceans and transform them into choppy seas that then settle into a strong uplifting ocean swells. So the waves that hit our beaches, reefs and points are created by waves of energy constantly transforming through matter. But what really matters is how we let these waves transform our energies.

When we go out to ride these ocean swells we’re irrepressibly uplifted, stoked! We smell the sea air, we see our surroundings in a brighter light. So spread the stoke around. Transform yourself; "Give a wave!" Transform the ocean’s perception of surfers, give it back some love; see those somatids shine! Allow yourself to be swept up in a universal wave of transformation and be amazed to see how the world transforms about you.
 
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